The first dip in the holy water of river Ganga numbed all my senses. Suddenly, the sound of chanting of the mantras and temple bells seemed, as if coming from a very far distance. I gathered courage and plunged into the water to take a second dip and then third. It was early morning in the month of September and I was taking divine dips in the holy township of Haridwar. We were on a short vacation with my Husband and kids, away from the hustle and bustle of metros. The holy dips in the sacred river and worshipping at Maa Mansadevi and Maa Chandidevi Temples at Haridwar, rejuvenated our sagging sprits and we continued our journey to Uttarkashi in the Garhwal Hills.
The early morning journey at this time of the year was quite nippy, specially in the forest of Rajaji National park. We had taken a detour through the Chilla wild life sanctuary, on way to Rishikesh. The breeze coming from the open windows of our car was full of freshness and signalling approach of winters. The smell of wild flowers of the woods was very convivial. Memories of my college days at IIT Roorkee came flooding, when I had visited with other students of Physics department, on an educational tour to Chilla Hydro electric project. The Chilla Sanctuary of Rajaji national Park is habitat of wild Asian elephants, but other mammals like leopards, spotted deer, Sambhar, Nilgai, Wild boars, etc., are in plenty, presence of tiger also is boasted by the sanctuary. The safaris in open jeeps are conducted by the Forest department and Usha Breco Ltd. from mid November to mid June, when the park is open for the visitors.
The route through the sanctuary was along an irrigational canal of holy Ganga with clear and sparkling water. The morning sun rays were flickering and dancing on waves in the canal, with water drops throwing colourful prismatic lights. We stopped at a place where the canal went underground, avoiding hindering the natural flow of a rivulet. The canal was made by Britishers and it took approximately 15 years to complete the project.
The area was full of natural beauty, accentuated by the chirping and tweeting of the birds, which was music to the ears. The distance of approximately 30 kms through the forest and canal passed in a jiffy and we found ourselves on the winding roads climbing up in the hills. After crossing the township of Nariender Nagar, as we neared a small hamlet Agrakhal, there was a diversion and a single lane road climbed steeply up in the hill. This was the diversion to the famous temple of Kunjapuri, which is one of the Shaktipeets and believed to be the place where the breast portion of the Sathi fell. We also took this climb, which was dangerously narrow at certain places. From the place of parking there were approx. 200 steps to the temple. The place wore a desolate look with some makeshift shops selling parshad and very few devotees. Even the monkeys and the langoors, which are a common sight at these places of worship, were very conspicuous by their absence, it seemed either they are on vacation or moved to greener pastures.
As we moved further into the Shivalik hills, the narrow streak of Ganga which was visible deep down, suddenly took the form of a mighty lake. We released that we are in the vicinity of the famous Tehri dam. It was difficult to imagine that numerous villages and the complete township of Tehri are at the bottom of this lake. The route ahead was doted with many tiny hamlets. I wondered as how people living in the hamlets up on the hill tops commute. The hardship of life was clearly visible on the wrinkled faces of the women folk. As we neared Uttarkashi the valley of river Ganga widened considerably. Uttarkashi is one of the districts HQ in Garhwal division. It is an important pilgrimage center equated with Varanasi or Kashi in divinity.
As the Char Dham yatra was in full swing, the roads were quite congested with vehicular traffic. A thick boundary wall was cordoning off one side of the road towards the hill. It was the famous Varunavat Mountain, which was in the news about 3 yrs back for the massive land slides. The tip of the mountain had slithered down. Now it resembled more like a drawing pencil tip with one side tapered off for shading. The earth moving equipments on top of the hill were reminding me of Bob the Builder, my daughter's favourite cartoon show.
After covering approx. 200kms, we finally reached excellent Kamla Bhawan Cottage, lying just below the shoulder off the main highway to Gangotri, along the bank of Holy Bhagirathi. The place was surrounded by the veil of trees and fragrant shrubbery. The ambience and the surrounding vistas were unrivalled. Children just freaked out on its open lawns, after a long incarceration of the journey. The lunch was served in the rooms with an equally hospitable staff. The temples of Lord Vishwanath, is located in the middle of the town. A massive iron trident, 26 ft high is erected here. It is believed that if one tries to shake this trident with both the hands it will not move, however if pushed by the little finger the trident shakes. We paid our homage at the temple and moved around in the small market selling various souvenir. We came to know through the locals that the temple of Goddess Kuteti Devi, a local deity is on the hill top on way to Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. The approach to both the places was very charming and the serenity and the tranquillity prevailing at these places were magnetizing.
Next day morning saw us ready for the trek to Nachiketa Tal. Armed with sticks, trekking shoes and satchels containing water bottle and eatables, both my daughters marched out of the rooms first, with full of josh and to take the trek head-on. But we knew that most part of the trek, will be taken by my little daughter, saddled on my husband shoulders. My husband who is an ex army officer, is used to these types of punishments, as most part of his Army training in academy passed in Big packs and doing extra drills.
We drove through the terraced fields to Chaurangi - Khal, a place 29 kms from Uttarkashi. It is from here that a trek of 3 kms through the lush green forest took us to Nachiketa Tal. The gardener of the cottage Rajpal had volunteered to guide us to the spot. It was a peaceful spot and the greenery all around with a small temple at the bank of the lake, gave it a serene look. It is a virgin place, with no signs of any kind of commercialization, even no accommodation available there. Nachiketa, the devout son of sage Uddalak, is believed to have created this lake, hence the name. After coming back to Chauragni Khal, the small shops hosted our lunch of Aloo parathas made on the typical village chulas, burning the conifers leaves and branches.
The following day, we visited a sylvan hamlet, famous for apple orchards, Harsil. It is at a distance of 73 kms from Uttarkashi. The place is also famous for the shooting of the various sequel of Raj kapoor's famous film "Ram Teri Ganga Meli". This sleepy hamlet offers immaculate beauty of the Himalayas. Harsil, is a quite resort to discover the undiscovered stretches of green, grassy land and to enjoy the natural beauty. It has all the natural beauty which one can imagine. I think this was the perfect picture finish to our great short excursion in the Himalayas.
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